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| Last Updated 04.11.2000 |
Below is my journal of my trip to Albania. The grammar or spelling might be awkward at times since I wrote many of the entries while "on the move." The journal was written for my family since I have a terrible memory. Wherever you see the word "you" in the journal, I'm talking to my wife Susie.
Time Notation: Times are shown in 24-hour format (subtract 12 from any hour over 12, and you have the PM time. Hours 12 or under are AM time. The time 00:00 is midnight, and 12:00 is noon. For example, 15:30 is [15-12=3] 3:30 PM). Also, the U.S. times are EST (Eastern Standard Time) while those in Switzerland and Albania are GMT+1 (six hours ahead of EST). I refer to this European time zone as "ALB" or Albanian time in the journal.
Susie's Picks: Wherever you see the § symbol, it shows Susie's picks. These entries were deemed by her to be the best or most interesting items. If you want to read just the highlights, look for these symbols. You can also click the symbol to jump to the next "pick." Click on this symbol to jump to the first pick: §
13:15 Keith Askew arrived at the house and loaded our van. I drove to the airport and checked all the bags through. The trunk was 80# which incurred a penalty fee in addition to the penalties for the two extra suitcases. That meant $330.00 altogether. Keith took care of the skycap tip and parking fees, so I'll need to thank him with a lunch when I get back.
We sat and talked for awhile — until about 15:00. The flight (surprise, surprise) is delayed, but it looks like I'll manage to make my connecting flight. Unfortunately that will probably exclude any meals in Atlanta. The Chattanooga terminal offers little consolation since the only food kiosk is being reconstructed and all the vending machines are missing.
We began boarding at 16:10, with lift-off at 16:22, and landing at 16:48. I make it to the terminal (E10) just in time to fill out some regulatory paperwork. By the time I'm seated it is 17:25. There was no time to eat or even take a bathroom break, so the pills are taken without water. I misfire on the swallow and now sit with a bitter aftertaste in my mouth that even the bottled water (that Swissair provided) won't eliminate. My back is evidence of a divine miracle since it hasn't tinged, and I've taken no medication until now (17:39). Just eight more hours (4681 miles) to Zurich. We lifted off Hartsfield at 17:57 (which is 1037 feet above sea level, and the temperature was a lovely 71°F). There are TV's mounted in the aisle overhead and two TV's ahead there is a steady drip of water (I hope from the air-conditioning!) from the ceiling. As I look out the window I notice the MD11 has wings with the tips turned up.
24:02 EST/05:54 ALB: Only about two hours to go, and my back is holding up. That is, there have been no seizures or even twinges. I do have burning and numbness but the pain is bearable and a joy compared to my collapse on Friday.
The buckey [a very comfortable "neck pillow" filled with buckwheat] wasn't much use. I just can't sleep upright. The seats are incredible tiny and my size makes matters worse. My knees brush the seat in front of me, my hips are squeezed between the armrests, and I can't even put the seat tray down because it sticks into my stomach. It's even worse now that the person in front of me has reclined their seat back. Using the laptop is out of the question. I couldn't angle the screen or open it enough so that I could see it.
The MD11 is different from most of the big jets I've taken. There are no air vents/jets and I miss that. The fresh air helps to alleviate wooziness. We've not had turbulence, so that's not too critical. However, my stomach has been cramping — not from nausea, but discomfort — and the fresh air would help. My stomach hasn't affected my appetite, and I'm looking forward to breakfast. Dinner was tiny but satisfying. It's amazing how little food I need to be content. I want to keep my portions this small when I get back to the U.S.
The in-flight movie was "Grey Owl" starring Pierce Brosnan living amongst the Indians. even with nothing to do, it was hard (boring) to watch — real slow moving. You might like it, however.
The MD11 is an older aircraft because it has cigarette ashtrays in the arm rests and in the rest rooms. Yet it has modern touches like the overhead TV's and the headphones use wire instead of just plastic tubes. The audio selection is suprising. This is the first flight that I've been on that didn't have a comedy track. And that's sorely missed since that WOULD make the time go faster.
I've been sitting for six hours and only been up twice to stretch and make bathroom visits. The lights just came on and the flight crew is getting ready to serve breakfast. It is 06:15 Swiss/ALB time, but just after midnight TN time. It is daunting to think there at least eight more hours to go! Then I'll still have to ride into Tiranë. If I get to bed by 9PM Friday that will mean I've been on the go for 33 hours, yow! Maybe I can catch a nap in the Zurich airport.
We arrived a few minutes early. It's about 8AM here (2AM EST). They don't know where my next plane is going to be yet since it's so early. I found a restaurant and ordered a croissant, two eggs, and bacon. They take U.S. dollars so I don't have to get any exchanged, but the bad news is that humble meal cost $8.65!
[Written on 2/27] Now that I have had a chance to rest I can think better. I had hoped to find a spot of carpet to lie down on in the Zurich airport. But like all things European it is all tile flooring. Even a seat was hard to come by. I decided to shop around, but the stores were crowded and I was too groggy to really deal with it. As I wandered around I saw a computer monitor showing which gate my flight would be at — finally! As I headed back to gate A53 the other monitors did not show any relevant information, so it was good that I had wandered so far. I hung around gate A53 until the flight for Warsaw left, thereby freeing up some seats.
I sat and nodded off a couple of times, but just for a few seconds. It's
like trying to sleep in church — easy to start, but hard to stay
At the end of the two hours layover they switched the gate for my flight to A52. The gruff Swiss lady was hateful, but I was too tired to care. She said I was checking in too late and there was no guarantee that my baggage would go on the flight. There wasn't anything I could do, so I just got on the tram and went to the plane.
The seats on the plane were narrower but not as close together front-to-back. I could put down the seat tray with no trouble. But the seats were built so that I could never straighten out my legs and my knees ached terribly.
We flew over the Swiss and Italian Alps and down the western coast of Italy. I could see the chalets on the mountains, and later the little coastal towns of whitewashed houses with red clay tile roofs by teal oceans.
The Tiranë airport has improved somewhat. They actually had a tram to drop you off at the terminal so you didn't have to walk the whole way from the plane [like I had to do in October 1998, my last visit]. Inside it was the same except they had a computer into which they typed passport information.
§ I was excited to see ALL the baggage being unloaded. In retrospect, the lady at Swissair had been so angry at my late check-in that she didn't charge me AGAIN for the excess baggage and excess weight.
Albanian porters were so eager to earn a buck (or should I say 139 Lekë?) that they quickly carried the bags I pointed out, and I zoomed through customs without being asked a single question or having a single bag opened!
Matt Wright was outside waiting, so when the five porters demanded their money I pointed to Matt standing outside at the road's edge and said "He'll take care of you — that's who I am meeting." They let Matt approach the building and again the bags (and me) were whisked outside. The porters went unpaid because they greedily refused Matt's offers.
The drive to Tiranë was a bit smoother than last time. Some of the roads had been paved and the bridge repaired (by NATO forces during the Kosovar crisis). The power pole in the middle of the road had also been removed. This road is actually the paved version of an highway of Rome (the Via Maris?). I could also see new buildings going up, but not enough to change the character of the city. The smell is better this time, probably because the cold weather helps keep the smell down.
Once in town, Matt stopped at a small shop to buy us some suflaqes (soo-floch-chays) for lunch. It is an uncut pita with sliced lamb meat, tomatoes, cucumbers, potato, lemons, and yogurt curds. The closest thing I can compare it to is a gyro. And like Ankar's gyros it is delicious.
After unloading it was about 15:30 and I went and crashed for the rest of the day. I got up in the middle of the night twice, so I took a sleeping pill to go back to sleep.
Saturday began late. None of the houses are insulated and the dampness makes the rooms bone chilling (about 50°F). The bed has a thick down quilt, about as thick as a sleeping bag. That helps to keep warm, but only so long as you stay in bed. I went down stairs to shower, which is only about 28 inches square! There are no hooks to hang towels on, or trays to set your soap down. I end up getting water all over the floor. I've been told that Albanians don't use shower curtains, and that makes sense, since they don't work well in such a confined spot. The air is so cold that the bathroom fills with a VERY dense fog.
Peter and Melody Bowers (my hosts) have an indoor/outdoor thermometer, and I'd say the bedroom is about 55°F now. Therefore families tend to congregate together in the room that has a heater.
I accompanied Matt as he ran errands around town — picking up groceries, tanks of butane gas for the space heaters, etc. § He mentioned that the street we are on (in front of the school) is now one way. It has changed directions several times over the last year (to fit the convenience of the person changing it). It was originally two-way and is still used as such when the police aren't enforcing the one-way. There are now road signs here since the UN visit — even stop signs (American)!
Breakfast was at the Bowers — a fried egg and French Toast. The bread used was very thick and gooey and of a dark grain. Lunch was some muffins that Cindy made, from granola, I believe. I went back to the Bowers after calling you and then back to the Wrights after dark for dinner. [A new internet service now allows the missionaries to make long distance calls at about 40 cents a minute compared to the $5 a minute I experienced last time. A computer in the U.S. makes the connecting calls and calls you back so that the better rate is available.] They had chicken tacos with yogurt substituting well for sour cream. She also had some lentils and rice and home-made salsa. They recently were able to get Rice Crispies and found a candy made with marshmallow (a hard-to-come-by ingredient). So she had rice crispy treats with brownies for desert. The brownies had chocolate chips and raisins. § I learned during the meal that Albanians peel their bananas from the other end!
After dinner I helped Matt & Cindy get their monitor to work with less flicker, and their scanner to make cleaner scans, and helped them import the CCL logo. I then looked at photos and Matt talked of his trip to Corfu, Greece and of his experiences in Operation Desert Storm. I got back to the Bowers after 23:00, so I went straight to bed. I could not get the electric space heater turned on, so it was a cold night. [I later found out that there was a safety switch on the bottom that had to be engaged]
Since the church services for today are in Shqip (the Albanian tongue), I bowed out. There's no sense in killing my back for a message I can't understand. Breakfast was mucilage and a raisin-twist bread.
I guess I should study for tomorrow's class. I will teach from 09:30 to 11:30 with one break. Lunch is at 13:00 and class reconvenes at 14:00 and lasts until 15:30. I will each lunch at the school and dinner with the different missionary families.
I just finished calling Susie to give her the address in Texas. Hopefully, my AC adapter will arrive in time to make it into Jim Neathery's hands, so I can enjoy at least ONE week of my laptop. Harrison was so excited to tell me of his newly acquired Pokemon Snap game and how he caught Gyrados in it, plus a Gameboy Mewtwo. I wish I could see his gigantic smile through the phone.
23:55 The Bowers and I just walked back from Matt & Cindy's house, where we had chicken tacos plus beef tacos. After dinner we watched the old classic Charade, which none of them had seen before. Even I caught a few lines I had missed before. On the trek back we passed a man and a woman getting out of a cab. A few steps later I heard him puking his guts out. Bet he made an impression on her. Probably too much raki (a vodka-like drink made from grapes).
Tonight Melodye announced that their second baby was on the way! She's not telling everyone yet. She wants to surprise her language teacher (in Shqip) on Friday during her test so she'll get a good score! I'm off to bed — tomorrow I meet the students and dive into the material. I'll have to get up about 07:00. They've told me to be extra sure to greet and say good-bye to the housekeeper tomorrow if I see her. Greetings and good-byes are very important etiquette here, especially towards the elderly.
08:38 I guess the world survived the last Y2K TEOTWAWKI milestone: 02.29.2000 — leapday! [TEOTWAWKI = "The End of the World as We Know It"]
I have settled down into the pattern that I anticipated. I get up, get ready (pretty much in isolation), walk a block to the school, teach all day, walk back, study until dinner, eat at someone's house, return and study until bed time. Not a lot of variety or adventure, so there's not too much to write about. Conversations with the missionaries are generally small-talk although there is the occasional sharing. But it would be rude to put any of that in my journal without their consent.
§ Morning showers are an incredible task each morning. That's if I am lucky enough to get up and get showered before the power goes off. Water pressure is dependent on electric pumps, so no power equals no water. The shower is so small that I'm constantly bumping the cold tile walls, sticking to the curtains, or knocking the faucet control. I've scalded myself very painfully three times already. [The water heater for the WHOLE house is only about two feet tall, so it is set to an extremely hot temperature in order to serve the entire house. Another odd thing is that every water heater I've seen here is mounted in the ceiling of the bathroom.]. Out of curiosity I measured the shower stall dimensions and it looks to be about 30 inches square. Since there is no soap tray you must juggle the soap and shampoo bottle as you shower. You can't set them down on the floor because there's no room to bend over. My towel today is a small hand towel, but amazingly gets the job done [I'm spoiled because the towel I use at home is the size of a BEACH towel, and twice as thick!]. Because of the extreme cold and humidity the bathroom is full of the thickest indoor fog I have ever seen! You can actually feel it as you breathe.
Dampness is an incredible problem here. All my books (even the thickest) have wavy pages from absorbing the moisture from the air. Mold must be cleaned from the upper corners of the rooms on a regular basis. And everything, including cloth, feels cold and slightly damp. I accidentally got the bath rug wet last Saturday morning. Wednesday morning it was still wet — not damp — but WET!
Another difficulty in the morning is the lack of hooks, racks, or chairs. I don't have a closet for my clothes, nor is there anywhere to set or hang clothes in the bathroom. I've gotten creative and take a hanger to hang off some overhead pipes. And the toilet lid offers some shelf space. It is a great relief to finish dressing each morning.
Things I would pack if I did it all over again:I'm very careful about not staying up too late. I am constantly waking up throughout the night, yet I seem to be getting plenty of rest. Some of my sleeplessness is due to baby Christopher screaming in the next room. Some is due to the city sounds. But most is due to my biological clock's confusion. Staying up late would make things worse, and for the same reason I have also resisted the temptation to take any naps.
We had ashure for yesterday's desert. It is a Bektashian dish. The Bektashi are a Muslim sect of Islamic assassins. This slightly gelatinous dish is served in a coffee mug and has pieces of wheat in it and a sprinkling of nutmeg powder on top. I found out that oats are never used in cooking — it is considered horse food. The students are shocked at the suggestion of oatmeal raisin cookies. The lunch itself was beans on rice. The beans were tan-colored, about the size of kidney beans. The rice was the larger, swelled, soft kind.
Monday night was at the Graves with homemade pizza and a lemon cake for desert (from their garden lemons). Tuesday night was at the Wrights for soup, salad, and a baked potato. Today's lunch was bread, soup, potatoes, and a piece of grilled chicken. Desert was a green apple.
12:23 Last night at the Bowers I had curried chicken on rice with toppings of chopped tomatoes, bananas, raisins, and peanuts. Today at the lunch break I went back to the Bowers where they had their weekly team meeting. I gave a short devotional out of Mark 1:29-38. It was about remembering what you said 'yes' to, and observes Christ's response to the ministry activities and opportunities, and in the midst of ministering to not forget ". . . this is what I came for." (Mk 1.38b)
Today I wore my heaviest shirt and jeans. The sky is overcast and there was a slight sprinkle this morning. There won't be a noonday sun to warm things up today. I also took an umbrella with me in case it begins raining.
My walk from the Bowers to CCL (or to the Wrights) is short. In the morning I pass through an open market — small but full of flavor. There are at least a dozen vendors selling fruits and vegetables. One sells several types of fish which definitely lend their aroma to the scene. Oranges, bananas, apples, and even kiwis are available. Vegetables include cucumbers, squash, okra, tomatoes, and potatoes. There are also mounds of black, green, or green-gray olives. Bunches of parsley and another parsley-like plant are for sale. Albanians use parsley in their soups more than just as the American style garnish. I also see beans, green onions, and something that looks like a giant green onion but a little bit more "root" ier — maybe a leek? Later I confirmed with Matt that my guess was correct: these are leeks. I also saw large wheels of white cheese (perhaps feta cheese?).
§ This morning I observed the Albanian method of serving Rice Crispies. You stick your hand into the box and grab a handful (or two) and place them in a bowl. You then add just a bit of cold water so they crackle and stick to each other. You mix them with a spoon and then they're ready to eat.
At noon I took a LONG walk on the Unaz ("circle") — a main road that rings the inner city. The sidewalk (if you can call it that) is lined with street vendors of all sorts. It reminds me of the flea market. Everything from furniture to food is being sold. I even saw several skinned sheep (complete with eyes) and pigs hanging in a small kiosk. I managed to make it back alive, having navigated (as a pedestrian) across the busy and chaotic roads. About one third of Albania's entire population lives in Tiranë! My walk also gave me a new Shqip word: "hapur." It hangs in many shop windows and obviously means "open." On the other hand, mbyllur is "closed."
Lunch today was rice (get this, the Shqip word is "pilaf") and green beans. Small chunks of pork are in the beans (as well as bones). God was kind enough to let me find the two bone fragments in my dish with my tongue instead of with my teeth (yeow!) or throat (choke!). I guess I should have been on the alert. An apple was dessert.
Last night I ate at Nathan and Lorraine Graves. Lorraine served chicken quarters in a mustard tarragon sauce. I also had a cup of hot peach tea. You know me — I don't even drink hot tea, but it was served and so I enjoyed it.
There was another missionary couple there: Larry Stuckey and his wife. Later, when we retired to the living room I saw his laptop &mash; a WinBook XL! As it worked out, he let me use his AC adapter to charge up (I left my laptop there overnight). That gives me a full charge until Monday evening (when mine should arrive). Larry, by the way, lives in a LITERAL castle in Austria. He showed me a picture of the Bible School where he works.
16:50 I spent the day cruising with Matt and buying (actually mostly "looking for") souvenirs. We stopped at a café and had a coke and later had a lunch of paidhaqe. It was grilled lamb with American style French fries (i.e., crispy, which is unusual). For a side we split a Greek salad. It had no lettuce — mostly tomatoes with very sharp onions, a few cucumber slices, local olives (not terribly flavorful), and local feta cheese (right texture, but not as sharp as the real thing). It also had pepper slices. They look like banana peppers, but they are not the hot variety.
Dinner was at the Graves again: meatballs (sorta like Swedish meatballs) on spaghetti noodles with slices of tomato and cucumber as the side. I beat Nathan at a game of Aggravation after finishing my cup of hot raspberry tea.
§ Once back at the Bowers I watched Junior TV (a European Cartoon Network)., except it was all Tom & Jerry cartoons. It was oddly "paced" to me since there was not even a commercial or station identification between cartoons. Kewl. And unlike some of the other Italian TV that they can get over here (and are dubbed over), these were shown in their original English form. Quite refreshing. Earlier in the week I had seen a few minutes of Home improvement dubbed in Italian. Not very funny without the dialogue. I did notice that they pretty much used voice actors who sounded like their character's actual American voices. Well, Junior TV goes off the air sometime before 20:00, so there's nothing else on (that I can understand) except CNN. This is a European CNN which does give a little U.S. coverage, but right now it's fashion news, so I'm off to bed.
22:52 I just returned from Matt & Cindy's house. Walking the darkened allies of Tiranë late at night is not very fun. Matt went with me to the half-way point — he went on to the CCL to check his laptop. It is in bad shape and it looks like a serious hardware failure. Must be the motherboard, and his warranty expires at the end of this week. If he can get an RMA, I'll probably bring it back to the U.S. with me for repairs. Genis also has some things that he wants me to send to a friend in Virginia. I've made it clear that it can't be heavy, must fit in a suitcase, and no plant are animal products which are illegal (e.g., fruits which can carry parasites).
Genis was asking about weight and size limitations this morning after the church service. They use a room in a building that was formerly a public bathhouse. A hole in the wall in the corner lets in electrical wires, and a bit of cold air. I noticed the ability to see people's breath in the church service, so today's rain has brought some extra chilly weather. Peter's message was very good, using excellent cross-cultural illustrations. I never knew sugar caused such a reaction is a soft drink! He used that to illustrate the effect of the Word in a receptive life (per James 1:22ff).
After church we went to a restaurant for lunch. One benefit of Albania is that eating out is not a budget-buster like in the U.S. Even though we were indoors, the patrons kept leaving the door open and letting in all the cold air. I hoped that the soup (supe krem pulë: cream of chicken soup) would help. Unfortunately service was so bad that I got a different (but acceptable) soup than I ordered: cream of mushroom. The main problem was that it arrived AFTER my entree! The entree was a personal pan pizza (kinda sorta), but not as thick of a crust. More like a thin-and-crispy. It was the size of a Pizza Hut small, so there was plenty. They topped it with salami (more like bologna + ham), mushrooms, tuna, and cheese. Each ingredient topped a different quadrant; they weren't mixed together. I gave the salami section mostly to Matt's kids since their orders NEVER came. It was fine since I had soup to fill me up. It was "lemony fresh" — not quite how I expected, and not very creamy for creme-of-mushroom. But it was good enough.
§ After lunch I went back to the Bowers and Peter and I watched a few minutes of TeleBingo, the biggest western impact on Albania since the fall of communism. Peter translated. It's Tiranë style lottery combined with the old game show "Let's make a Deal!" A pretty girl draws out a lottery ticket and hands it to the host. He then calls the phone number on the ticket. You must be home to win (which explains why all of Tiranë watches this every Sunday) and you MUST answer the phone "TeleBingo!" After chatting with the host you pick a number and they pull an envelope from a rack. (The rack has obviously been recycled. It's the rotating type that you've seen in any drugstore or tourist gift shop. The kind used to hold picture post cards.) He then looks at its contents, and then begins to offer alternative prizes. How about a coat? A lamp? The coat, the lamp, and a box of detergent? No? You want to stick with the envelope? Okay! You've just won a permanent from a hair stylist!
Of course, everyone is hoping to get the envelope with the million dollars. Also in a country of distrust, I think most people go for the envelope. Also onstage was a "choir " of girls all dressed (scantily for such winter weather) in identical outfits. They don't actually sing — just clap at the appropriate time. I wonder if a male winner gets to pick a date! There are also girls behind every one of the judges. They just stand there doing nothing. At least in America Vanna turns the letters and most game-show girls point to the prizes in a swooping manner.
Anyway, we went to CCL to meet Matt, where Peter tried working on his computer. I used the two hours of my battery getting files for next week onto a floppy disk. I had a bit of time left over at the end, so I re-installed Descent 2 (already on my to-do list of software that needed to be reloaded) and played one level. Just as I finished the low-battery alarm sounded so I ran the battery down as far as it would go (important to get the best charge possible later). Mat was surprised that I had such faith, since Jim may not have my AC adapter when he arrives Monday afternoon.
I forgot to mention, the bathroom at the restaurant had a Turkish toilet — what they call a "squatty potty." It's a porcelain hole in the floor: no seat of any kind. Foot grips are provided so you know where to squat. Hopefully the camera shot I took will turn out so you'll see what I mean.
Anyway, after working on Matt's PC I went to his house for dinner. The power was out in his sector so walking the rubble-strewn and pot-hole-filled ally was a little bit of trouble. Luckily I never fell into the mud. The power did come on later, so I was able to check for your email.
Speaking of power outages, one TeleBingo contestant who was called, couldn't see the prizes since her TV couldn't work (her sector was out). The host had to explain what her alternative prizes looked like. Also, we kept answering the phones at CCL with the phrase "TeleBingo!" It was a great laugh. Peter says one of the students will call his buddies the same instant that the host dials, just to get them excited.
Ayyo! It's 20 till midnight and my sleeping pill is beginning to work (despite having a cup of Turkish Coffee at the Wright's). I don't have my fan or other white-noise maker to drown out the sounds (like the machine gun we heard tonight), and you know how I hate sleeping with a light on. This electric heater is the crystal rod type, so all three rods glow quite brightly. But it's the only way to stay moderately warm, so I make do.
Se Jezusi eshtë Zot = Jesus is Lord
Jezus, Princi i Paqe = Jesus, Prince of Peace
12:34 Last night dinner was at the Bower's and as is their tradition the students came for the evening. They know Polish Uno, but they say not all the "official" rules (perhaps). They DO play the 9 rule (last hand on top draws two cards), so they probably know nearly all the rules. I also thought they might enjoy learning spoons. However, they needed to get back to study. (Who is this burdensome teacher, anyway?!)
The laptop adapter arrived about 17:00 so I set it up to calibrate the battery. Later I realized that a power outage (a common occurrence) would be bad, but hoped for none tonight. My prayers were answered.
The power grid isn't capable of handling the load requirements of Tiranë so they take turns turning off different sectors of the city throughout the day so every body gets a chance at having some power. Or so the theory goes. The Bowers did have a three-day outage once. Anyway, we lose power about two or three times a day. The outages last about an hour. Sometimes they're even courteous enough to blink the lights as a type of "five minute warning," but only rarely. It'd be nice if they'd do it in the mornings — to give you a chance to rinse out your shampoo before losing all water pressure in the shower.
As you can tell, I've found my pencil. I brought three mechanical pencils with me, but the first two only had a partial lead apiece. I forgot to make sure they were filled! So when I misplaced the only working pencil, I then had to resort to the hated pen. Refills are not easily obtained, so it was easier to do without than tracking some down to buy.
Today is "Teacher's Day." It is a national holiday in which Albanians honor their teachers. It marks the day the first school opened in Albania in the 1800's. Today they gave me a long-stemmed red carnation. For them, Matt and I conspired to only teach a half-day, so they could visit any teachers they wished to honor. Today's lesson was the last chapter and they also have that burden behind them. We even got finished a few minutes early. Tomorrow morning I will lecture on "Small Group Discussion Techniques." Then all they have left is to write a short essay on one phase we've covered in class, orally present their independent thinking on it, and then lead a small group discussion by asking thought-provoking questions that relate the concepts of the material to the Albanian context.
Tomorrow is a half-day as well since it is a back-to-back holiday. The 8th is "Women's day." I jokingly told them we should go to Durrës (about an hour's drive) or Vlora (about 4 or more hour's drive to the south) to visit the beach. Geri, my translator, said we could probably convince the Dean (Matt Wright) to take us to "the lake" or the botanical gardens (both in proximity). I said it would have to be like Moses. Geri would be Aaron, my mouth piece, who would beg Pharaoh (Matt) to "let us go" (GRIN)! Looks like it worked. Matt had a good chuckle when we explained why he was approached with the greeting "Oh great Pharaoh . . .!"
§ Last night the students put me to a test, and were amazed that I could say "Coca-Cola" without my lips touching. I explained that it was natural for a "suth'n boy." Then I explained about Chattanooga being the first bottling site and nearby Atlanta's Coca-Cola HQ and museum, especially all the flavors and the endless supply at the end of the tour. We also talked about how "coke" is a generic term in the South (especially a "Coca-Cola Town" like Chattanooga), why it tastes different in Albania (they use real cane sugar instead of corn syrup), and how cocaine was used in the original release.
This morning Nina showed me how she makes Turkish coffee. Until the fall of communism in 1991, they knew of no other type. I explained I had not had coffee in nearly 20 years! Spending time on a coffee plantation in the late 70's spoiled me. My return to the U.S. in 1980 led to my quitting — prices soared and the quality and style were not palatable (I was used to boiled milk instead of water and a sweetener of honey made from coffee blossoms).
Turkish coffee is served in a tiny demitasse cup and is made with a spoon of finely ground coffee powder. Slow boiling is the key, Nina said. Others say to add the sugar (1 or 2 spoons) into the water as soon as it boils, followed by the coffee and immediately removed from the heat. The pot used is not much bigger than two demitasse cups (although they make larger pots depending on how many cups you want to fix).
There is a slight brown froth on top and a layer of sludge left on the bottom. It is highly caffeinated (about 50mg) so the students expected an impact. They were more astonished that I drank another cup at noon with no effects. What they don't know is that I am well acclimated to caffeine due to my enjoyment of Diet Mountain Dew (55mg).
Turkish coffee is ground in a brass cylinder. Since it is traditionally served at large gatherings and special occasions (e.g., weddings and funerals) all the women bring their grinders to the function and chat as they create the necessary supply. Also a common expression is to invite someone to a bar or pub by asking them "to have a coffee" with them. It could be any drink — coke, beer, water, etc. but it is understood that the invitation to share a coffee is a generic offer.
12:40 I woke up early today, about 05:40 (which is 23:40 your time). So if you watched the 11 o'clock news, you were going to bed as I was getting up!
I was convicted by my own lessons. One of the key facts that I stress in the course are the six steps Christ used in training: Tell them "what," Tell them "why," Show them "How," Do it with them, Let them do it, and then Deploy them. I've re-worked many of my lessons to fit this pattern for the Timothy School. One part that hasn't been re-worked was the essay assignment I just gave the students. I had told them what and why, but not the rest. So, this morning I wrote an essay to show them an example. Then I presented it orally and gave them some example questions that would stimulate small group discussion. That segued into small group techniques, which filled the rest of the morning. It was good to see the light bulbs come on. They remembered seeing the techniques as I used them in prior classes, and now they could see why I had done things in a certain way.
For example, the technique for addressing a wrong answer: Instead of creating an adversarial environment by saying "No" or "That's wrong!" you identify the part that is right and ask questions of clarification about the erroneous part. For example, "That's excellent! When you said X it really brings into focus the main issue at hand. When you said Z, did you mean that we're responsible for Y and W, or just Y?" Ada was surprised and said "Oh! You did that to me! Instead of saying 'That's stupid!' you made me feel good about what I said and helped me to see the rest."
It's nice to know I can sometimes follow my own advice! I readily admitted to them that I have to continually review my own techniques against these principles to wee where I'm dropping the ball.
One thing I've noticed about Albanian weather here is that clouds = rain. When it gets cloudy it's not long before it rains. And when it rains it is a long gray day. When it's sunny, it's like our October skies — very blue and not a single cloud. There have been no "partly sunny" days so far: it's all or nothing.
But even the sunny days are so cold. The stone walls absorb the cold and windowless rooms are downright chilly. Even when I've layered my two HEAVIEST shirts (!!!) over a T-shirt and wear a coat, my fingers get numb and my feet pick up a chill through the floor. I saw frost this morning, so I know it's at freezing or below, but the sun is so bright that it doesn't make sense that it is so cold. The heaters are space heaters (butane or electric) , so only the body part close to it gets warm. There's always one part that's cold. Boy I can't wait to get home and feel warm ALL over!
Lunch today (3/8) was a huge bowl of peas with and occasional carrot cube. They had been stewed with some broth. On the side was a lettuce and green onion salad with oil & vinegar for dressing. I was relieved after my first bowl of peas when they brought out some chunks of meat. It was basically the same dish earlier last week, but using peas instead of green beans. I sincerely prefer the green beans.
The road to the botanical garden (the last leg, that is) was a deep pitted mud road. It was good were in a high-riding, 4-wheel jeep or we may not have made it through the mud filled trenches they call a road. European circles (a type of intersection) are not uncommon, so Matt (as a joke) did about 3 laps around one near the Stephen Center.
The gardens showed a richer past, but now are just a shadow of their former glory. Plots where flowers should be were bare earth, and where pansies were planted they were sparse and widely spaced. One thing impressive were the palm trees. They were of a girth more like an ancient oak's. Children and teens filled one tree as they picked bunches of tiny, clustered yellow flowers — mimora — which are traditionally given to teachers or mothers (as today is "Women's Day").
§ In one open field we played a rather cruel form of "monkey in the middle." Everyone forms a loose and spaced circle. then we volley a ball (a soccer ball in this case) amongst each other. If someone fails to serve it to the other person, or fails to bounce it to someone, then you are sent to the middle of the circle. There you kneel or squat. The volley continues, but now a new option is available. You can now SPIKE the ball into the middle. If it strikes someone (before bouncing on the ground), you do not have to get into the middle. On the other hand if you miss the people in the center, you must join them. If one of those in the middle grabs the ball, then you trade places with that person. When only two people are standing, the one who messes up first goes into the middle while all those in the middle come out and reform the circle.
After getting back from the gardens I went back to the Bowers to kill some time before heading for the Wrights. I watched Italian cartoons, which happened to be classic Disney toons of Mickey, Donald, Pluto, and Goofy. Only a few were dubbed in Italian, and even then they're still enjoyable. That's one benefit of Albanian (or should I say Italian) TV. Even the Disney Channel in the United States isn't this good! Besides, not even a single second of commercials the entire time!
Dinner was with the Wrights who took me to the Gjeli (The Rooster), a very nice restaurant at the end of a VERY rough road on the North side of town. Rough brick and stacked stone walls give it a lot of character. A huge double wooden door with cross-beam lock leads to a courtyard where outside seating is used during warmer months. A nice garden accents the stone floor, which includes waterways in some spots. During the summer they pump water onto the roof and it cascades like a waterfall into the troughs. Matt & Cindy say the sound is very relaxing.
There are several fat cats that roam the courtyard and even the INSIDE as well. One came to visit our table, but thankfully did not jump onto it. Matt said that last time they came, two cats got into a fight on a table. Matt had a laser pointer, but the cat was actually afraid of it rather than attracted! She then left and ran into the kitchen. We figured out later why she didn't like the red dot of light.
In the center of everything is a wall fireplace that is a semi-circle of about six feet in diameter. Luckily we got a table next to it so we could enjoy it's warmth. From its center fire they rake the coals out and cook the dinners over them, including toast (I saw one neglected batch get ruined). Once (no twice) an ember would pop loudly and fly across the room. One landed next to my foot — a six-foot jump! The kitty knew not to play with any red glowing thing that moves!
§ I could see into the kitchen where a cook held a cigarette in one hand as his huge cleaver randomly whacked off pieces of lamb. You get the strangest cuts, with the usual bones (or bone chips). Another oven in the wall was a wood burning brick oven where they cook pizzas the old country way. What they pulled out, however, was a skinned sheep's head with wide white eyes. I must say they look some what better cooked than raw and bloody.
The power went out once, but the fire was enough to get by with until the electricity was restored.
I had an antipasto plate with pepperoni-like meat, ham-like meat, and some twangy meat. One cheese type was fine, but the Albanian feta-like cheese is dry, hard, and skunky/twangy. I couldn't finish it. My entree was Mishi Miks, a variety of cooked meats that had been fire grilled: lamb, pork, and two sausage link types. Fire toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil, finished it off. It was an excellent meal, and definitely an adventure. Classy by Albanian standards, so you can imagine what the food safety is like at the street vendor's carts.
It's the last day in this book [Bill Hull's Jesus Christ, Disciplemaker]. The students give their oral presentations and lead their small group discussions. I keep track and everyone hits every point on the grading criteria and they perform every action I'm expecting. They have done a fantastic job! By 15:30 (right on time) we're all finished and an easy Friday awaits us. I even work it out to watch a Jackie Chan DVD ("Who Am I?") I brought with me if we finish early tomorrow. [One of the rules is that there is to be no television viewing by students while inside the school].
§ Lunch was spaghetti, except the meat sauce is just that — ground beef only (no vegetables or tomato sauce). I sop the juices with the homemade bread and they compliment me on eating like a true Albanian. Then I show them a magic trick I secretly prepared earlier. I show them a banana and say "This is why Americans peel their bananas from the stem [what they call the 'tail']: when you do it this way the banana is sliced before it is peeled." As I peel it falls into neat little slices!
During the meal they say I am the most faithful teacher they have had. I give a puzzled look and they explain "You have eaten every lunch with us." They are deeply impacted with my willingness to be with them. I am deeply touched and hope that they see what I have "preached" is a conviction that I want them to adopt: play together, eat together, work together, pray together, and worship together. Build relationships and enter into activities where true character emerges.
Dinner was at the Graves: chili on rice and almonds with cheese on top. Desert was Apple Cobbler, which they called Apple Crisp (because it is thinner than cobbler?). The power went out twice during dinner, and about the time candles were lit it would come on shortly thereafter. Lorraine noted that I eat bread like an Albanian — tearing it into pieces and eating it unbuttered. After dinner the power stayed on as we watched some selections from the DVD "The Best Bits of Bean" that I had brought with me. We hooked my laptop to Nathan's monitor and the whole family enjoyed the better episodes up until it was bedtime for the kids.
It's 22:42 and I'm finally back in my room catching up on my journal. I am so tired, but I had to catch up. I don't know about tomorrow's schedule, but it's my call. I'll play it by ear. I will probably draw highlights from the remaining two books in the trilogy. I'm also very aware that my return home is quickly coming, and I grow more excited by the day. The power is out here, so it's time to turn out the gas lantern and crawl into bed. I hope the power comes on later, or it's going to be a cold night!
08:22 I can't believe it, but the final weekend is finally here. I only have to wake up two more times in Tiranë, then I'm headed home!
I awoke at 05:00 again, even with a sleeping pill. The power is still out since 20:00 last night. As I lay in my warm bed I keep thinking "The longer I stay here, the closer I am to when the power comes on." But eventually I had to get up. I took a sponge bath, but who would notice when I'm wearing three shirts and two pairs of socks? My throat is a bit sore from breathing the cold air all night long, but maybe it will do okay when the sun warms things up a bit.
The morning session was only about an hour. I covered some highlights (the ones not too complex or involved) from the other two books, and then asked a thought provoking question at the end ("Are disciples born or made?")
Since the power was out, we next huddled around the laptop to watch the promised movie "Who Am I?" About the time that the battery began to die, they started up the school's generator. We then hooked up the laptop to a TV and finished it with a bigger picture and bigger sound. I also got to see how my laptop did handling 220v instead of 110v (it did fine), and PAL versus NSTC [European versus American TV broadcast frequencies].
§ Even Vali came in to watch, even though she only speaks Shqip. One of the students made the connection with the movie and one of my western illustrations. Jackie Chan was squatting on a pinnacle and Ada noted "He's a highway hen — he lays it on the line, and he lays it fast!" Everyone died laughing.
The movie finished at the perfect time. Just enough before lunch to set up the table. Today it was French fries, fried chicken (no coating), and that ever-present soup containing bits of chicken (?), parsley, a few grains of rice, and the popular lemon flavoring.
That also reminds me. In the morning Genis asked me if I would like a cup of juice. They have all kinds, not just apple and orange juice. Actually the pear juice is quite common and good. When I asked what type he said "chicken juice." The thought of cold chicken coagulating drippings was not appetizing! I explained to him that when Americans use the term "juice" in reference to a drink, we think of a cold drink. What he was offering is what we would call chicken broth. I told him that we eat that frequently and explained that Won Ton Soup is made from the same "juice" and is quite delicious. But all the same, I'm too full right now (plus I hadn't recovered from the thought of cold chicken juice and had no appetite).
After lunch I helped Genis find a verse, and Geri wanted to see the game Total Annihilation and how it was played. Then Ada and her friend took me to a nearby shop to find a pretty set of Turkish coffee cups and saucers (a demitasse set). Here's the recipe I synthesized for Turkish coffee:
Albanians knew no other kind of coffee or any other method of coffee until 1991 when communism fell. The same goes pretty much for cars. They were very rare in those days. The reason so many Volvos, BMWs, and Mercedes are seen on the streets is because they are stolen in other countries and are easily sold to unconcerned Albanians. In fact, an Albanian government official went to Greece this August to discuss the problem. This high-ranking official had his car confiscated at the border. It was a stolen car! The problem is so bad that all the borders of Albania have computers (on the other country's side) with a huge database of stolen vehicles so that when one crosses the border they can be retrieved.
I played a game of TA (Boy! Am I way out of practice!) and finally quit about 18:00. Nathan and the kids drove me to the Stephen Center where we met up with Matt and his kids; plus TJ Neathery. Later, Peter joined us along with his nine-month old Christopher. I was supposed to eat at the Neathery's, but Jim and Missy (and their toddler Andrew) are feeling ill. Believe it or not, I actually had a bacon-cheeseburger and it was almost real tasting!
After eating Nathan had to go home and lie down since his back was hurting. Matt took me back to CCL (he had to drop off TJ, whose home is next door). I got my laptop, which I left at the school to recharge (since they would turn on the generator occasionally: the neighborhood was without power since the day before). Amazingly, the power was back on — a little more than 24 hours after going out. Matt then took me to his house so he could watch "Who Am I?" Peter joined us as well. Hooking up the laptop was a bit easier since I had learned a bit about the technique when trying to do it for the students. Another nice thing about having a 220v cord is that I will be able to recharge in Zurich because the plugs/voltage are the same.
08:30 I got up early today and took a shower at 07:00. Then I got caught up on my journal from last night. As I showered, made the bed, etc. I kept thinking "I'm only going to do this one more time, and then I'll be on my way home!" Today I will try to get the last few items I'm supposed to bring back. Hopefully, I'll even get some studying done for next week (two classes). It's getting closer, and I'm getting excited about being back.
About 10:30 I was stir crazy waiting for Matt to call. The Bowers were back form a special breakfast that Peter treated Melodye to. I couldn't get a hold of Matt because the phone was busy. It was busy for quite awhile, so no doubt they are on the internet. I told Melodye that I was going to walk over to their house, because I was too antsy. The markets and a lot of shops close at 13:00 or 14:00. With so much to do, I needed to get started right away, even if I have to use sign language. So I was going now to arrange to meet Matt when he would be free and head out on my own. When I arrived, Matt was ready to go. He has to be back to take Caleb to soccer practice, though.
We parked near Skanderbeg Square and walked to the souvenir shops, the markets, and the antique shops. We were thirsty about 11:30, so we stopped at Matt's favorite suflaqe shop and had one and a soft drink (I had a lime flavored Ebe from Greece). We eventually ran out of time, and I needed a bathroom break. Back at Matt's house I got the "missions" suitcase and piled all my recently purchased loot into it and carried it to the Bowers.
§ After having a coke, I headed back to the center of town on foot to finish my shopping. On the way I ran into Geri and we hugged and said a good-bye. This time I brought my camera, but didn't take any shots. The only one I might have taken was moving too fast. It was a van full of secret police, with their masks pulled down and hanging out the windows with their machine guns. It might have been for the best that I missed that shot, since they might have taken my camera (and me) if they saw me taking a photo. I was only accosted by one beggar kid who hung onto my sleeves. When I shook him off he hung onto to belt loop for about a block before giving up. I kept an eye out after that and didn't get near any that looked like they were on the hunt. I've learned that if you give one some lekë a hundred kids will swarm you for the rest of the day. I wouldn't mind if they had a legitimate need, but it encourages some to seek begging as a career instead of honest labor.
It's kinda scary that I'm able to get around by myself without getting lost. My shoes have put in a lot of miles through Albanian dust, mud, and refuse. I made it back without any trouble. It's very warm today, and I didn't wear any jacket (which had held my camera). And two layers of shirts actually got a little hot later in the day. The temperatures hit 75°F in the sun today. It's been warm (relatively!) the past two days. It was 57°F inside the house this morning about 09:00. When that's considered warmer, imagine one of the colder mornings when the power is out!
23:00 My last night in Tiranë is upon me. I checked my email, and sent you my last message (and got yours). Tomorrow will go quickly because I have so much to pack. Normally a visitor to the CCL brings much and leaves all their load behind. This time there's plenty going back: Genis' care package to his Albanian friend in Virginia (minus the head of garlic, which would have been illegal and the two recycled plastic bottles of olive oil which would have leaked all over the inside of the suitcase); Matt's laptop for repair; U.S. postal bags sent with books inside (you would think the post office would have a way to get them back); letters to mail to friends and family of missionaries and Albanians (quite a stack); plus my souvenirs. At least I won't have anything to declare in customs (must be $400.00 or more, and I'm not even close).
On the way to Matt's I stopped by a street shop to say "Mirëbrema, nyë kilo kafe Turke." We are able to complete the transaction of 800 Lekë despite my lack of Shqip. He asked if I was Dutch. He was delighted that he had an American customer. I was delighted to have purchased a kilo (2.2#) of Turkish coffee for only about $2.56 a pound). When Matt asked me why I bought so much I explained that I only know two Shqip numbers (I can recognize more than I can say): one or two. Asking for a quarter or half a kilo was impossible, so I'll freeze half of it and have a year's supply!
§ I asked the kids what the strangest or neatest thing about Albania was for them. Caleb likes the inexpensive ice cream (1.39 cents!) and playing soccer. Erin mentioned it was strange to see so much trash. Emily gave the shy, expected "I don't know." I know all of them enjoyed playing with the landlord's lamb that he bought today. Later when Emily said she was tired I suggested that she go out to the courtyard and count sheep (one!). Thus issued a volley of baaaad puns. No one was too sheepish to ram such juvenile humor down each other's throats. Matt was being a wooly bugger about the whole thing, but when I had herd enough, I silenced him with a snappy comeback: "Says ewe!"
Matt suggested that I put the coffee in my carryon bag. Since coffee has been used to throw off drug sniffing dogs, it'd be easier to have it ready for immediate inspection. I don't mind opening any bags, but I don't want to miss my ASA connection from Atlanta due to a lengthy search.
14:03 I am sitting at the gate awaiting my flight (which is at 15:00), so I've got about an hour to kill. Packing was an adventure this morning. I arrived with four bags, but I'm leaving with only two. Yet, I'm taking quite a bit of stuff back (Matt's laptop, its accessories, its case, letters from many people, Genis' care package, plus about five very large canvas postal bags). Everything is at the bursting point, but thankfully none are overweight or oversized so I don't have to worry about penalty fees. Packing aggravated my back a little bit. Bending over all the cases for an hour and lugging the heavy bags around was a little painful. On the other hand the last few days have been so good that there were times when I was without pain for extended periods and I could forget that I even have a condition.
I think things will be fine. I've gone over a week without my prescription drugs, so hopefully they will be effective. I took a pain pill and a muscle relaxant right before getting into the jeep and won't be due for another until right before I get into Zurich. I also retrieved my ice pack and wore it during the ride out to the airport.
About mid-morning Ada dropped by to say good-bye (Beta had called yesterday to say good-bye before taking a bus back to her village). Ada brought a farewell gift from all the students and to pass on well wishes for my trip. They gave me a miniature flag of Albania with golden trim and set in an alabaster base. I had already squeezed both bags closed, so I was wondering how I would get it in. The big green suitcase was duck-taped shut to keep it from popping open (and it had the large brown suitcase barely nested inside it [no sense in paying a penalty fee for one extra suitcase when it would be empty]). The small rollerboard had to be opened and I got it inside after taking it apart. The pole was a coat hanger shaft painted with gold paint and hot-glued to the base. I just pulled it out, wrapped the flag around the pole, and squeezed it into a tiny gap. It'll be easy to glue back.
At the airport we arrived a little earlier than expected, so parking was easy. Since all the bags were few and with wheels, we didn't have to pay any kids for portage. At the door, Matt convinced the police officer to let him inside so he could get my bag at least to the first checkpoint. He couldn't go further, so we said our good-byes. Even the last two yards were a help to have him pull the giant green suitcase (at 53 pounds). Using my feet I was able to shepherd all the bags a few feet at a time the remaining nine feet and into an area of less confusion, and less of a chance of being stolen.
The first person checked my passport and tickets. Then a few steps ahead at the baggage counter I got my boarding passes for all the legs back. I checked the big to suitcases through to Chattanooga, so I won't see them until after I see you (and in light of my last trip with ASA, maybe the day after that!). The lady at the baggage desk wasn't having a good day and I tried to be extra nice. It wasn't too effective, but at least she didn't give me any hassles. She kept mentioning "Kattanooga" as my destination, but there wasn't any sense in correcting her pronounciation.
The next stop was a policeman and border officer who collected my exit tax. It is $45.00 to get in and $10.00 to get out of Albania (all U.S. Dollars). They like big, crisp bills (easier to verify as genuine), but I needed to reduce the bulk of my wallet. I had exactly 10 one dollar bills set aside, so things went quickly.
A few more steps and I was at the passport check as they entered my number into a computer (wow, things have really improved since my last visit). He stamped my passport, ticket, and exit form (filled out prior to entering the country) and then it was through the metal detector. That brings me to the seats at gate #3. It's 14:35 now so only a few minutes and I'll be on the plane. My carry-on (the big computer case with wheels) is too large for this tiny jet, so they'll take it at the foot of the plane's stairs, and return it to me as I step off the plane. That's okay, since I can pop out the much smaller laptop case (that is nested inside) that has my essentials (ear plugs, eye patches, pain pills, and this journal).
14:58 They don't believe in lines here so I staged myself near the gate a few minutes early, and also to get a better seat on the tram (last time we had to walk). It's not far; about as far as you walk on a busy day to get into Walmart. But I'm not complaining. The drizzle of noon had increased to a steady, light rain.
When the bus pulled up, the crowds surged toward the gate and we were well pressed. They took my ticket, boarding pass, and checked my passport one more time (just to see the outside, not to look at any pages). I avoided the crush at the bus by going to the opposite end. The people were all jammed at the back while I waltzed to the front and got on with not a soul around that end and got a choice solo seat next to the driver.
I took my time getting off, since there was no need to stand in the rain while everyone waited to climb the plane's stairs. I took that opportunity to remove my laptop bag, journal, and grammar book out of the large computer case. I left the big bag with an attendant at the bottom of the steps. When I got to seat 10A (window) a Swiss gentleman (he spoke something German-like and had good English so it's a good guess) asked to switch seats so he could sit with his wife. I moved up a row to his seat (9B an aisle seat). It's raining, so there's not going to be much of a view anyway. Beside, I changed my mind about window seats. The aisle seat is better on long flights since you don't have to crawl over anyone to get out, and you can stretch your legs into the aisle. The seats are so close together that my knees touch the seat in front of me (and that seat isn't even leaning back yet). My flight from Zurich left my knees aching terribly, so I thank the Lord for such a treat! Jehova-Jira provides! Also being last on the plane means that there's just that much less time I'm trapped in this seat. 15:17
The bus went back for a second load of passengers and after everyone got settled we taxied onto the runway. We sat for about 20 minutes (I don't know why, it's not like there are a lot of planes coming in & out of here!). Finally we took off at 15:52, nearly an hour late. It doesn't look like I'll be in Zurich soon enough to catch a train into town for dinner.
16:52 I just finished a leisurely lunch (like where would I rush off to?) of tortellini in a gravy sauce. It may actually be a Swiss dumpling dish since the tortellini pasta doesn't necessarily mean Italian. The knodels were white, green, and orange and the gravy like that on Swedish meatballs or stroganoff. A wheat roll on the side followed by a fresh baked roll that was orange in color and the grains looked like rye — but not with a rye flavor. Real butter and two diet cokes followed by a desert that is hard to describe but easy to enjoy: a coffee glaze with cocoa powder sprinkled on top decorated a cake sandwich containing three layers: a dark chocolate crumble (slightly crunchy), a peanut butter creme layer, and a darker brown creme layer of undistinguishable flavor.
Before lunch began the captain notified us that we were flying over the coast of Italy, and over Venice. His thick accent makes him difficult to understand over the tinny speakers and rumble of the engines. English is the international standard for all flights, but obviously enunciation doesn't factor in. He also mentioned some strategy to help make up for the hour delay in Tiranë, but as I said I didn't understand how (or his explanation of why we had to wait — it sounded something like "radio anomaly" and a previous flight that left just before we did. Maybe?).
17:48 We passed the clouds of the Balkans and as we flew into Switzerland you could see mile after mile of jagged, snow covered peaks lit by the bright, setting sun. The attendants came by a few minutes earlier to hand out large chocolates (gold and silver medallions) like they did on the incoming flight. That gives me a total of four for the family. Matt said to not even bother buying Swiss chocolates in Zurich. It's much cheaper to buy the exact same thing at the local BiLo grocery store (e.g., Toblerands [not too good] or Lindtt's). We are beginning our descent (a gradual process with several ear-poppings and banking turns). We've left the mountains behind and below are country communities, farms, and small woodland areas. As with Albania and Italy the houses are frequently topped with tera-cotta colored roofs (pipe tile, no doubt). We touch down at 18:03
After showing my passport it was easy to find my way out and to the hotelbus area. The van left shortly after I got aboard. It was a short hop to the hotel. I checked in and went to my room. Switzerland is definitely civilized. The highways look a lot like ours and everything is extremely clean. It's also very efficiently arranged. My room is very small by American standards, but not crowded — engineered for functional simplicity with style. I watched some Cartoon Network, but turned it off when Dexter's Lab came on. Dexter with a French accent is understandable, but in actual French it is not too entertaining. At 19:45 church bells began ringing with a vengeance throughout the city and kept on until 20:00. The Swiss take their clocks and time seriously. It sounded like when a prince gets married.
Sleep didn't come easy. The walls are so thin I can hear people in the parking lot, four floors down. Not to mention the road in front of the hotel. And the incoming aircraft (but at least they didn't fly late at night). Another disturbance was the birds at 05:00! I looked out the window to see if the sun rises that early here (which it shouldn't — it should be a late sun riser considering the northern latitude!) — it was dark except for street lights. Weird. They eventually quit (or I fell asleep before they quit) and there wasn't a peep at daylight.
MONDAY!!!! I awoke at 07:14 (01:14 your time) and it will be 15 hours until I am home.
It was good to have a shower in a slightly bigger area. Not as big as ours, but no danger of scalding. And the tile isn't freezing, nor the inside temperature in the low 50's. I packed and barely made it downstairs before the shuttle (that I needed to catch) left. Yeow! That was close — It left on schedule at 08:20 with the next one scheduled for 09:20, which would have been way too late to catch my flight (which began boarding at 09:30, and that's after I would have to make it through all the check points, paperwork, metal detectors, and nearly a mile of walking!). As I was saying, I got checked out at 08:12 and left at 08:20. On the roadside were children walking to school. Each one had a V-shaped neck piece (like a choir robe would have) that was fluorescent orange — neat!
The lines were long at the Swiss Air desk, so that's where I filled in my journal entry for today and yesterday. Of course, writing while standing up makes for very sloppy writing, sorry. I took a picture of a bear made entirely of Lego® blocks standing nearby.
I took a moving sidewalk to passport control and I was past my first two waiting lines. Of course gate B36 is at the very end of the opposite end of the airport. After the metal detector (and a frisking due to my metal-soled shoes) I was in the gate area. Luckily, a snack bar was in the area and I was starving, having had no time to get breakfast. A small salami sandwich, banana, and two Diet Cokes cost $9.00+ USD! I got two cokes since it's an hour to take-off.
That strategy proved necessary, because suddenly the last (actually next to last) line grew. I quickly joined it for one more passport check, boarding pass stamp, and to turn in my "if my plane crashes, here's Susie's phone number" form that is required for all U.S. citizens (new since the last time).
Boarding began at 09:30, just enough time to finish my coke and use the bathroom. I'm in no rush to get into the boarding line. I'm not anxious to squeeze into those tiny seats when the waiting area is so much more comfortable! It's 09:45 now, and I'll have many hours to sit uncomfortably. The line has died down a bit, and so I think I'll join in as not to make anyone mad. German-speaking people seem to be easily irritated.
09:54 (03:54 EST), and I'm in my tiny little seat. The smaller jet from Tiranë had more room, since my seat tray sticks into my gut even if I suck it in. I had to climb over a young couple to get to my seat. In first class, this side of the plane is divided into 2 seats in contrast to 3 for economy class. I was afraid my carry-on would have to be stored a considerable distance from my seat 27A. That's one of the down sides of boarding at the end of the line. I did manage to squeeze it on the other side of the aisle (above 27D). I'm sitting right over the wing, so the view will be partially obstructed, but not too bad. Anyway, most of the flight will be over water.
One nice thing about this flight is that I'm finally hearing real American English. It's starting to feel like I'm a little bit in America. A lot of the passengers are from at least two tour groups just returning from Israel. As you can imagine, they're all elderly and it's almost humorous their constant complaining about lines, forms, etc. The other half are a bit confused, looking like calves at a new gate. International travel is in a way a culture all its own. There is a lot that the airports and the airlines assume in the area of procedures. I can understand why some are confused, and I'm glad I had some experience travelling with others before I had to go it alone. It's also one reason I didn't feel up to a late, quick foray into Zurich.
By the way, there was no customs check on the way into Switzerland. I exited the door stating "Nothing to Declare" and I was out. Quite a contrast to what's awaiting me in Atlanta. I'm actually carrying the coffee with me to avoid any hassle in customs. Drug carriers use coffee to mask the smell of their wares from the drug-sniffing dogs. I really don't want to open the big suitcases and try to repack them in a hurry. It takes planning to squeeze it all in. I'm carrying the coffee in heat-sealed plastic bags which are themselves in zip-lock bags so I can pour the coffee out into them so the custom officials can see nothing is hidden inside the bags. I was hoping to get a bit to eat in Atlanta, but that's looking impossible now that I examine it. It's 10:15 and we're still sitting at the gate. So far we're even more late taking off than we already were, and then it gets worse (unless ASA is late as well). Landing in Atlanta at 14:15 and taking off at 15:37 gives me 1:22 to make it through customs, change from concourse E (international) to C (Delta/ASA domestic), and beat the check-in deadline (which is 20 minutes before boarding time — or they give your seat away!), which can begin as early as 30 minutes before take-off. So that means 30 minutes or less time to stand in line, purchase, wait for your order, and then eat. We'll see.
They announced our flight will take a total of nine hours and 50 minutes. My original calculation of 7 hours failed to factor in the rotation of the earth.
I just found out what the little flags, that they pin into the top of some seats, are for. I thought it was to identify extra favors for people somewhere between economy and business class. What they are is an indicator of dietary restrictions. The green ones were given to vegetarian Hindus in the row in front of us. Boy, I wish some of these 3rd world and 2nd world types would bathe more often! An MD-11 doesn't have personal air jets like most, so air circulation is poor. Phew!
It's 10:33 and we're finally pulling away from the gate. Hopefully, they will "give her some extra gas" to make up for the last take-off.
I just took a sip of Evian bottled water. Just a tip for you. The air on an airplane is very dry, so a long flight like this will dry you out. If you ever fly, be sure to drink plenty of fluids to avoid dehydration and the amplification of jet lag that it can bring. We're airborne at 10:46 (04:46 EST).
All times are EST from this point.
Lunch was chicken Kiev (breaded and wrapped around broccoli or spinach), cubed oven-baked potatoes, and boiled spinach (bleck!). This drink, plus the one right after take-off, plus the water, puts me at 1 1/3 litre. So my bladder was bursting by the time I could get up and head to the bathroom. I had to wake up a lady to get out (and I wanted to stretch as well). I stood at the back after using the "toilet" (that's how Europeans and their signs refer to it — accurate but lacking subtly). When the back of the plane got crowded with people doing the same thing, I moved back near my seat and just stood in the aisle.
While there I got out my laptop and a book and set them in my seat. As the aisle got more traffic I moved up near one of the doors without traffic. I was able to get on a knee and pop my back and stretch. Then they announced the in-flight movie: "The World Is Not Enough" so I head back to my seat. I'm glad it was edited for all audiences.
After the movie they gave us information on customs procedures and paperwork. I have to declare everything bought in Albania, which is an extremely difficult taxation of my mental faculties. On top of that I have to calculate the rate of 100 Lekë = $1.39 USD. The list item I put down is "misc." since the form doesn't have enough lines to list everything. It contains the sum of all the small items. I hope they are understanding. I will have to drag all my heavy bags through customs. That's not something I look forward to; but I know that it's the last big milestone.
After doing the paperwork, another movie came on: "The Bachelor." It's the movie Mom & Dad saw being filmed when they were in California not too long ago. It's' a cute movie, and I think you'd like it, though it's a bit modern in its mores.
13:30! About 45 minutes to Atlanta if they've manage to maintain their air speed. After the movie there was a short break before they showed Wallace & Grommit's "The Wrong Trousers." I didn't watch it since it's been too recent since I last saw/enjoyed it. Instead I fired up the laptop and worked on this Sunday's lesson. Then a fairly lengthy documentary about the James Bond films came on (about an hour in length). They covered the various Bond's, Bond girls, Bond gadgets, Bond villains, etc. I think it was on TNT television not too long ago. I didn't watch that either except when I was up stretching. I had to have a bathroom break. There was a line at the bathroom, and after I was done I found a free spot to stand for awhile. I could see the TV screens, but even without audio it was still easy to tell what was going on ("car go boom!").
During the Wallace & Grommit showing they passed out snacks. It was dinner time by Switzerland time zone. They handed out a roll with a piece of salami, curried rice & carrots, a small brownie, and another Diet Coke. Just enough to hold us until Hartsfield Airport. An empty stomach gets upset easier. I also guess they're doing the back-to-back videos to keep people from going stir crazy at the end of such a long flight. I felt the plane slowing down just a tad. We're probably over Georgia or the South Carolina coast, so they're probably dropping altitude slowly. Actually, I take that back. We're at the edge of the Appalachians near the southern border of North Carolina, where we'll cross the point of SC and be in GA shortly. It may seem far, but at 444MPH they're expecting an on-time arrival in 32 minutes. Just 168 miles to go, Yipee!
A side note: the couple next to me must have bladders the size of basketballs. I never saw either one get up the whole flight except to let me in or out. I know I have a small bladder, but 2 trips in 10 hours isn't too much to ask is it?
The plane touches down at 14:16. I'm off the plane by 14:34 and through the immigration line by 14:53. I picked up all my luggage by 14:56 and made it through customs by 15:02 with no questions or searches — just one drug-sniffing beagle. I make it to Concourse C's Wendy's by 15:11 as I'm on my way to gate C33 which is near the end of the concourse of course. I get checked-in by 15:20 and find a seat in the waiting area just as they begin boarding. I hang back as I eat my burger and some of the fries. After I give my boarding pass I stand at the door as I use the diet coke to swallow my two prescription pills and then toss the remaining fries and coke into the trash at the last minute before dashing to the plane sitting on the runway. I take my journal and wool cap out of my carry on and have them green-tag the large computer bag (which still has the laptop [brave of me, eh?]) inside. "Green tag" is they'll hand it to me as I step off the plane. I don't want to stow the bag under the seat in front of me or I won't be able to stretch or bend my knees, and it won't fit in the overhead which are tiny on these puddle-jumpers. I'm sitting here in my seat right now, sweating from the dash (something that was hard to do in cold Albania!).
The check-in desk said the flight was on time (and I believe them), but I still wish I could have called you. The phones were right there by the gate. Oh well, you'll see me in less than an HOUR!!! YIP-YIP-YIPEE!
Window 5D is right at the propeller. From experience I have my ear plugs and in they go. The flight is a little late pulling from the gate, but that appears to be due to some late boarders. I sure wish I could see my baggage. I hate to think that last trip's repeat might happen. [It did, the bags didn't arrive in Chattanooga until TUESDAY! The Albanians could get my luggage on board, but ASA let it sit in Atlanta for several flights, and it arrived in phases. Sheesh.]
We took off at 15:59 (22 minutes late). The recline button on my seat is gone! There's just a hole there so my seat won't stay upright and it is straining my back. I'm sure glad this is a short flight.
I didn't see much of Stone Mountain; just the back of it, so it wasn't worth wasting a picture. I did get a great view of Ravinia, Perimeter Mall, and the Embassy Suites where I was in class the week before my Albanian trip. It would've been a silly photo so I skipped it. Maybe I'll get a shot of something in Chattanooga. I've got two (I think) photos left in this last disposable camera and I want one of the pictures to be of you and the kid's beaming faces. We're about 20 miles from the airport and we're beginning our descent with only 10 miles to go. Hallelujah! Darn! We flew right over hour house. Literally — so I couldn't see it. I could see East Brainerd road, so I knew it was beneath my feet. Oh well — a shot of the Golden Gallon wouldn't have been the same. But boy is it exciting to see home landmarks! I'm comin' home baby! Touchdown 03.13.2000 at 16:30. All Praise to God! — end log.